Thursday, August 21, 2008

Personal Survey of Rancho Tranquilo

I´m grateful to have had the foresight to bring along some rubber boots. They are essential for hiking during the rainy season. I have a laminated map of Ranch Tranquilo which I will use to navigate this rugged piece of land. This is my first real chance to walk the property, since my last attempt ended with me losing my footing on a rock and falling into the river. This time my new camera is in a plastic bag. I brought drinking water, a machete, the aforementioned camera and map. (note to self: next time bring toilet paper)

The previous owner of this land is a big cattle rancher and I agreed to allow him to keep his cattle on the land. The cattle help keep the grass low and they tend to make nice trails through the brush. There must be fifty head of cattle out here and every one of them is staring curiously at me as I pass by. There's a bull trying to get aggressive with me, but I stop, brandish my machete and growl loudly (something about wanting steak for dinner tonight.)

I picked up a cattle path leading toward the back of the property. I forgot how steep these hills are. A short hike is a major gain in elevation. Soon, I have a view of the entire area. It´s truly spectacular yet I have barely climbed. The back of the property is essentially the north slope of a mountain which can be seen prominently from the road for kilometers. I do not know if this mountain has a name, but it should, based on its prominence in the landscape. The peak is somewhat cone shaped and covered in pine. Rancho Tranquilo´s property line ends where the pine forest begins.

I won´t be hiking that high today. It´s a serious haul. I was up there with Jose on my last trip. He tried to convince me that there were human remains in a cave behind a waterfall. When we arrived, I was impressed to find a beautiful waterfall that cascades down a staircase of boulders. There was, indeed a cave behind the waterfall, but as far as I could tell, the bones were not human. Probably some type of deer. The views from up here are simply stunning and the pine forest gives off a scent that is nearly intoxicating. Perhaps it´s the lack of oxygen in my brain. The hike up there is a rigorous challenge. On this day I´ve decided to locate my boundary to the East which is a creek that flows into El Nance. I was under the impression that the fence that marks the property line was on my side of the creek. This means the creek belongs to my neighbor. Following the creek for a while, I find that the fence jumps sides. From this point onward, the creek is on my side. I´m ecstatic, because of what I find along this creek. A huge rock formation that seems to form a natural dam, thus creating an idyllic swimming hole. It´s an awesome find and nearby the topography levels out making it a prime building location. I envision a a spa/yoga retreat out here with this setting on the grounds. The sounds of the babbling brook fills my head.

It will be dark in about an hour, so I decide to cut my way, in a bee line, toward El Nance to photograph the falls and follow the river back to the road. The brush is unbelievably thick. The grass is tall and I´m getting nervous with no more than a few feet visibility. I know the river is straight ahead, so I press forward swinging my machete at everything in my path. I finally reach the river bank, but it´s a steep rocky climb down to the water. I support myself with trees and vines as I slowly descend. Once at the river, I´m again stunned by the beauty. The river has carved its path through the rock, which form the banks. Massive boulders break up the flow of the clear water, like islands. At places, the rock also form natural dams. Tranquil pools are created and spaced periodically between the rapids. Lush tropical flora frame the river on both sides. I imagine my young children as teenagers making this their playground on some future summer vacation. I took many photos, which will appear on my website when I return home.

After jumping stepping stones and wading through the shallow rapids, I arrive down stream at the bridge. This is the main road. I Climb out and walk back to Carlos´house. I´m soaked with both sweat and river water. My rubber boots are sloshing with each step. With my trusty machete in hand, I´m feeling a deep sense of satisfaction.

(note: a future post will include more pics of the river, and waterfalls)

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